This is why it is essential for us to demand awareness of #WhoMadeMyClothes, and in doing so, develop an understanding of what these people face in the name of fashion. It is why we need to look closer at the human rights violations taking place throughout the industry, and to recognise how the structure of international human rights law, and the framework of ‘Shared Responsibility’ fails so many. Here, I will outline the key issues with human rights observed in the wider sector, and then give brief insight into the experiences of workers in Bangladesh.
I will report on circumstances prior to the global pandemic, but strongly recommend you read about the unique, very serious impacts of Coronavirus on our industry through Fashion Revolution’s Report and Clean Clothes Campaign’s Live Blog. In the small(ish) space of this article, it is difficult to give each area the full extent of analysis deserved. Instead, I have suggested some further reading, sourced mainly from key organisations working to seek real, meaningful change within clothing and textiles. I hope this will be a useful resource, and provide you with plenty to read, learn and revolt as lockdown continues.
In the South Asian country of Bangladesh, garments make up roughly 84% of exports, which are thought to have generated more than $30 billion for their economy last year alone. Around 4.1 million people are employed in the country’s garment sector, though it is thought that more than 15 million people rely on this industry both directly and indirectly, with their 4,500+ garment factories also requiring roles such as truck drivers, port workers and food sellers. It’s imperative to note that 85% of the garment workers are women, a common gender majority found in garment workforces across the producing countries, and a predominant intersectional issue which will be focussed on in the next blog.
Lack of Living Wage
Article 23, Part 3 of the UDHR states, “Everyone who works has the right to just and favourable remuneration ensuring for himself and his family an existence worthy of human dignity, and supplemented, if necessary, by other means of social protection.” War on Want, a movement committed to social justice, reflect this right in their demands for workers’ living wage – defining this as enough to provide a decent standard of living for both the worker and their families, earned in a fair, standard working week. They go on to clearly outline, “Such a wage must be sufficient to provide nutrition, shelter, clothing, health care and education. It should cover other expenses such as communication and travel that are an essential part of life in the modern world. And it should provide enough so that a worker can save a small amount each week.”
Wages for garment workers in Bangladesh have long been a highly contentious issue, but in the last few years they have particularly taken focus, gaining significant, worldwide media attention. In December 2018, the minimum wage increased from 5,300 taka ($63 USD) to 8,000 taka ($96 USD) per month. While a wage rise of 51% may seem impressive at first glance, workers and union leaders titled the rise ‘outrageous’ considering their initial demands for a 16,000 taka minimum wage, which still falls short of the living wage calculation for Bangladesh. Tens of thousands of garment workers went on strike in December and January and took to the streets protesting the decision. They were met with excessive force from police, who used rubber bullets, tear gas and water cannons to disperse crowds, and later proceeded to raid homes of garment workers, shooting with rubber bullets. One worker was killed. When thousands attempted to return to work, they were either arrested or dismissed in retaliation, with factory owners blacklisting individuals to ensure they’d struggle to find future employment elsewhere.
Modest increases for lower and mid-range worker grades were announced, but the minimum wage remained the same, less than half of a calculated living wage for Bangladesh.
