H – Handmade
Sometimes the sheer volume of ethical fashion brands, and fast fashion brands claiming to be ethical, can be completely overwhelming. How do we make the right choices? One piece of advice I often give people is to shop small and shop local. When we support independent designers and makers, we can ensure that our products are ethically handmade by a single pair of hands. Plus, it helps boost the local economy and makes the creative person behind the business do a little happy dance because you’ve helped boost their passion project. What’s not to love?
I – Innovation
I have the tendency to get quite cynical about the state of the fashion industry (and oh boy, it’s a real state), but when I want to feel a little better about the world, I look to all the incredible startups investing in innovations to help make the future of fashion a little bit brighter. Take a gander at Fashion For Good, the sustainable innovation platform which has supported dozens of new business working to embrace the circular economy in fashion. From futuristic bio-textiles to resale programmes and recycling technologies – some brilliant boffins are out there truly making the industry a better place for the next generation.
J – Jeans
Who doesn’t love jeans? The ultimate in universal style, denim is a fashion leveller, and it’s durability, versatility and accessibility isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. The problem is, creating just one pair of blue jeans takes over 7,600 litres of water – possibly the thirstiest garment in our wardrobes. Most cotton used in denim is conventional rather than organic, so it’s gluttonous use of pesticides impacts biodiversity, soil health and human health too. That’s before we even take into account the indigo dyes, and the harsh chemicals used to create any distressing or fading of the jeans to make them look ‘worn-in’, creating problems in the world’s rivers.
Watch the documentary River Blue to learn more about the impact of denim on the environment. And check out Kings of Indigo, Mud Jeans and Monkee Genes for a more sustainable alternative. (Or even better – go second hand! Most vintage shops and resale sites are filled to the brim with retro Levi’s and Wranglers that will last you a lifetime.)
K – Knowledge
In this world of eco-anxiety, knowledge is power to ensure we can stay positive and focus on actionable solutions. Some of my favourite Instagram accounts to follow to educate myself on all things ethical fashion include Aja Barber, Fashion Revolution, Sustainable Fashion Forum and Tick Over. I can also recommend stepping away from your screen and reading some books on the subject, including Elizabeth Cline’s ‘Conscious Closet’, Dana Thomas’ ‘Fashionopolis’, Lauren Bravo’s ‘How to Break Up with Fast Fashion’, and ‘Slave to Fashion’ & ‘Slow Fashion’ by Safia Minney. Fancy some audio learning? Listen to these brilliant podcasts – Wardrobe Crisis, Switch, Conscious Chatter, Ethical Hour and Business of Fashion. There’s loads more ethical fashion resources here.
L – Labels
“Care for your clothes like the good friends they are” – Joan Crawford.
DId you know that up to 20% of the environmental impact of a garment occurs in the laundering stage? Knowing what our care labels mean is an excellent way to make our clothes last longer by washing, drying and ironing them correctly. I’ve become familiar with the various symbols due to studying textiles while at university, but here’s a simple guide to care labels so you can swot up too. My two top tips are to invest in a Guppy Friend to wash any polyester garments n (this snazzy little bag captures microfibres in the washing machine), and to simply wash clothes less – particularly durable items like jeans, jumpers and bras (or at least wash them at 30 degrees to save energy.
The fibre content part of the labels stitched into the clothes we buy (or listed in their online product descriptions) – look out for single fibres rather than multiple fibre blends (this makes the clothing easier to recycle at the end of it’s useful life), and wherever possible, try to avoid virgin polyester, acrylic, nylon, PVC or other petrochemical-based materials, opting for natural, biodegradable fibres instead.
M – Marketing
Beyond the greenwashing messages mentioned above, the sheer volume (both in terms of quantity and unavoidable ‘loudness’) of marketing messages we receive from fashion brands is overwhelming – and that’s coming from someone who pays their rent working in fashion marketing.
My top tip for someone wanting to start distancing themselves from fast fashion and overconsumption in general is to unsubscribe from as many newsletters as possible, especially if the tone of those emails are urgent and high pressure (‘buy now!’ ‘last chance to buy!’ or ‘get it or regret it!’), and you find it difficult to resist discount codes and free shipping offers (I feel you, boo).
Same goes for social media – if you don’t like a brand’s ethics, don’t give them the privilege of your attention, simply unfollow (and block any ads that pop up like little fast fashion demons). Check out Fashion Revolution’s Black Friday campaign to find out all about dodging the dark side of a ‘good deal’.